Current EV owners: are you going with full-EV Scout or EREV Harvester Scout?


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DaveGunter

DaveGunter

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Well, yeah. What else are we going to do for two years on these forums? It’s an educated guess though based on the ram charger and on the physics of carrying two engines around. Can pretty much guarantee harvester mode is going to return some pretty lousy mpg numbers.
If you do the math on the specs that Ram is giving for the Ramcharger, it’s about 20 mpg when the gas engine is running.
 

drhnbtx

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If you do the math on the specs that Ram is giving for the Ramcharger, it’s about 20 mpg when the gas engine is running.
I think the Scout Harvester will be much more efficient just based on the engine packaging graphic that Scout put out. The Ram is a full 3.6 liter(i believe) that takes up the entire frunk/engine bay area
 
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DaveGunter

DaveGunter

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Charging to 100% on a regular basis is not a problem. What is hard on the EV batteries is sitting for extended periods of time near 100% or below 20% especially in high temperatures.

My Nissan Leaf shows about a 9% reduction in range, on a full charge, with a seven year old battery pack. It sits most of the time at 80% and gets charged to 100% the night before longer trips.
Correct, and 100% indicated is not actual, the manufactures build in an upper and lower buffer precisely so that the batteries don’t sit at full capacity.
 

TwoJacks

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I think the Scout Harvester will be much more efficient just based on the engine packaging graphic that Scout put out. The Ram is a full 3.6 liter(i believe) that takes up the entire frunk/engine bay area
Yes, and that is about 4-5 mpg below what a comparable ICE truck gets nowadays. Will likely get around 10-12 towing. Just doesn’t really make sense to me. I’d rather just buy an ICE truck with better mileage.
 

NukeDukem

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Yep. I didn’t catch the smaller battery in the range extender. It makes sense though. Honestly I thought it was 350 miles regardless then additional 150 for the extender. Probably gonna switch over to full ev now. Especially if they have 800 v architecture and on the Tesla network
I didn’t switch but just added another reservation for the BEV. If the 150 mile battery range is confirmed, I’ll cancel my reservation for the Harvester model.
 

mgarciaknight

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I'm confused. Why would an BEV with a 350 mile range be a problem for a 180 mile daily


EV max range depends on MANY factors (e. g. wheel size, tire tread, drive mode, ride height, temperature, driver, etc.) not relevant to other devices that use lithium batteries which is an apples to donuts argument.

First of all your iPhone and/or MacBook battery pack is not based upon a 409V or 800V architecture; however, I do have a couple 10+ year old laptops whose batteries won't hold a charge now so have to be plugged in to use them. It's CHEMISTRY not an opinion!

Also, charging an EV with a NMC chemistry is fine as long as you don't let it sit for a long time afterwards before driving it which affects the longevity of the battery pack and degradation.

That said, LFP based battery packs can be charged to 100% daily without the same degradation concerns.

Regardless, I charge my Rivian R1S nightly to 80% which gives me an estimated 235 miles in sport mode, lowest ride height, max brake Regen which leaves me with 120+ miles from my daily commute which is plenty.

So I have no range anxiety for a Scout BEV that claims 350 max miles.
I have a BS in biochemistry, so trust me, I know chemistry. Your first four paragraphs were just fluff, but your fifth paragraph drives my point home. You charge it to 80%, which is what ALL manufacturers recommend you charge the vehicles to for a daily basis type of deal. Which again the 350 would be a myth, and 280 would be more realistic. Whether you drive 5 miles daily or 115 miles like in your case is not the point and does not matter, or have anything to do with my statement. My girlfriend has an iD4 and every time we charge it takes it to 80% only and warns you about charging to 100%. And yes our future Scouts will be VW based, just like her iD4.
I am all in on EVs, but could you imagine if ICE manufacturers make it a point of filling the gas tank to only 80% every time you fill up!?!
 

rivianwho

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I have a BS in biochemistry, so trust me, I know chemistry. Your first four paragraphs were just fluff, but your fifth paragraph drives my point home. You charge it to 80%, which is what ALL manufacturers recommend you charge the vehicles to for a daily basis type of deal. Which again the 350 would be a myth, and 280 would be more realistic. Whether you drive 5 miles daily or 115 miles like in your case is not the point and does not matter, or have anything to do with my statement. My girlfriend has an iD4 and every time we charge it takes it to 80% only and warns you about charging to 100%. And yes our future Scouts will be VW based, just like her iD4.
I am all in on EVs, but could you imagine if ICE manufacturers make it a point of filling the gas tank to only 80% every time you fill up!?!
It's not fluff but fact that there are MANY factors that affect max range. Choose 20" wheels with All Terrain tires for your quad motor Rivian R1 and you reduce your max range by 40 miles; choose the 22" wheels with all season tires and you reduce your max range by 20 miles. Choose Sport mode instead of Conserve mode and drive like a jackhole and you loose 39+ miles range and even more in cold weather. Again, these are PROVEN facts not fluff.

Again, you are ignoring several major points.

#1 You CAN charge NMC based battery packs to 100% IF you don't let it sit after fully charged.

#2 You can charge LFP based battery packs to 100% daily and let them sit without a problem.

#3 280 miles on a daily charge for a daily driver is MORE than enough for 99.9999% of people who home charge.

#4 It's not recommended to let your ICEV (especially diesels) tank be near empty either due to the crud in your tank that clogs injectors and fuel filters, so you really should refuel by 90% empty at the most but 75-80% is much better.
 

Ready4Rivian

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I had asked about this in another area of this forum when Scout said the battery size would be reduced in the Harvester model. I was told that 150 miles would be the battery-only range and the rest would be from the gas generator.
The Harvester kicks in after 150 miles of battery only driving in order to get ahead of the charging for the additional miles. You can select battery only and get 300+ miles of EV only range. It really is the best of both worlds. I would only select To have the Harvester kick in on extreme road trips.
 

NukeDukem

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The Harvester kicks in after 150 miles of battery only driving in order to get ahead of the charging for the additional miles. You can select battery only and get 300+ miles of EV only range. It really is the best of both worlds. I would only select To have the Harvester kick in on extreme road trips.
Really? This makes a world of difference.
 

NukeDukem

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The next question will be what if I run the battery down and then turn on the Harvester? How fast will it charge? I'm thinking that you drive 300 or so miles to the charging station to find that its full or out of order.

It seems kinda neat that you could sit in line at a full charging station but still be able to charge :)
 

PNW Nate

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Reserved the EREV. We want an EV truck for day-to-day use and road trips on the highway system with charger infrastructure (which is almost everywhere civilized). I only want to use the range extender when we do multiday camping or overlanding trips into Alaska.

Our Rivian R1S has a 310-mile range and works just fine for road trips across state lines. I do not have any range anxiety with this - the range estimation is good enough that I go as low as the last 10% of the battery charge left.

If the Harvester has less than a 250-mile range in pure EV mode, I will have to reconsider if it is a good fit.
I do not want an ICE vehicle that I have to fill up frequently.
 
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